Karen Duncan is the Makeup Mechanic

Tips & Tricks

Got a makeup or skincare question? Send us your questions!

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Sunscreen | Airbrush Techniques | Perfect Eyeshadow Application


"I used sunscreen at the beach this weekend and STILL got sunburned! I’m using an spf of 30...what am I doing wrong?"

Karen's Answer:
You’re definitely on the right track. But here are a few bits of information we’re never told about the purchasing and use of sunscreen:

  1. Sunscreen doesn’t take effect immediately. Those chemicals need at least 20 minutes once they are applied to be the most efficient. Unless you are using zinc oxide or titanium dioxide which are sun blocks (they deflect those dangerous rays) you need to apply that broad spectrum sunscreen before you even put your bathing suit on!
  2. Don’t let the number be your only guide. You need to be looking for specific ingredients as well. The term Broad Spectrum means that the UVB (burning) and UVA (aging) rays are the target. Parsol 1789, Oxybenzone, Avebenzone, Mexoryl- these are the words you’re looking for on the side of that package before it ends up in your shopping cart

If you are showing some sensitivity to the product you have chosen-irritation or burning when applying- it might be the percentage of the effective ingredient. Back down to a lower number or change products completely.

One more note: check for expiration dates. If you haven’t used it since last summer, it’s time to buy a new one.

* Don’t just give up. The best anti- aging device out there is sunscreen.


"I’m reading a lot about ‘air brush’ make up in the magazines. They say the stars get this to make their skin look flawless. I’ve seen a few options in the stores. Is this what they use? How does it work? Will I turn orange like my instant tan fiasco??"

Karen's Answer:
Ha! I had one of those pumpkin feet adventures recently. Sad, isn’t it, to go out in the sunlight and see what you’ve done to yourself.

No, air brush make up does not fall into this category. It’s a technique.

Air brushing has become a staple in the make up artists’ arsenal thanks to high def TV. Pixels, or dots of color, from a spraying device allowing extremely light and subtle coverage. It’s amazingly realistic when done properly. There in lies the catch: properly.

This is why I think it’s a better option for body parts vs. the face. The mist from the cans is broad and I haven’t found one that is as precise as the professional machine that I use on set.

However, Sally Hansen makes a spray on stocking that is great for the legs. It’s a bit too opaque for the face- makes you look like a mannequin- but for covering spider veins and giving the legs a little richer color for the night: Perfect!

I suggest starting light. The color options are impossible to distinguish because you can’t see in the can so you’re just going to have to guess. Once again, it’s very forgiving because it’s a mist but it piles up really fast… just like the orange feet incident.

Walk outside to check the color. I always say if you look good in sunlight you’ll look good anywhere.

I truly believe that self-applied air brushing is just a marketing trend away from full access and pixilated success for us all!


"How do I keep my eyeshadow from falling onto my cheek when I apply it. I tap my brush but some dust somehow still manages to drift down. Then it makes a smudge when I try to wipe it off!"

Karen's Answer:
All make up artists love a product that does double duty and I’m so glad I get to share this little tidbit with you. Those oil blotting sheets fall right into this category. Not only do they absorb that extra shine but if you lay one down right under your eye, they catch the extra shadow dust.

Make sure you’re using the powder-free kind. There’s no need to add powder to an area that has high wrinkle potential.

My all time favorite: Mary Kay. They’re made of 100% linen and really affordable!



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